Friday 21 February 2014

History of Design-Christian Dior


Christian Dior


He was born in Granville on the 21st of January 1905. Christian Dior was formed by many great artists. Christian Dior himself always wanted to be part of the artistic movement but his parents rejected to send him to schools that consists of art and design because the lack of jobs. He respected their opinion but still chased his dream. In 1928 Christian`s dad opened an art gallery in Paris only for him. Now a day he is known for the popular title he managed to achieve in fashion industry. He started to live in Paris at the age of 5 years. Pablo Picasso was one of the famous artists that sold Dior`s work from his early carrier. His art gallery had to be closed in 1929 due to a huge depression. He began to work as a fashion designer with Robert Piquet which allowed him to collect some experience in the industry. Dior began as a fashion designer who manufactured and sold clothes in Lucien Long were he was main designer. The last achievement Christian Dior does was released on the cover of time magazine and after he died at the age of 52 on 23rd October,1957 

In 1940`s and 1950`s started to occur an after war fashion. Some of the designs that were created are still in fashion today. The artists today use the same structures of skirts of that time but transform it to become more original for today. Christian Diors aim was to bring back France`s world wide outstanding fashion industry after war.



Post-war


This is made by Christian Dior in 1947 which was stored in Paris in 1996. It is bar suit from the New look Collection. I can see a pleated hip area smart jacket with buttons starting from the bust till waist, The full three quarters skirt is giving contrast because it is black. He mostly emphasized on the bust area because it is fitted to show curves of a woman. He also wanted to add volume on the hips for more curves . It was meant to give a message of strength, elegance and richness to the model. The gloves and shoes she is wearing are petite and elegant. the hat is showing that it is made for morning dressing. The skirt is pleated to give extreme elegance and posh look. The hat is reminding me of traditional Chinese hat because its form.

After suffering from a fix allowance on fabric in war time Doir wanted to create a new and original change with the fabric allocated after war time. After war the women was nearly forced to stay at home doing housework and the flowery and over decorated fashion were supported completely in western countries.  The bar suit is the main suit in that time. Dior wanted to remove flowery and over decorated suits and because of that he were criticised as bad taste.




After the 1947 collection Dior started to use much more fabric to make richer clothing. He started to amplify the hourglass curve by using a lot of material layers on the waist to make it look wasp. He used to add padding`s in some areas for more volume.

Today
This was inspired from bar suit from Christian Dior New look collection. It was made in 2013 inspired from late 40`s. It is made by Bill Gaytten which is spreading inspirations from John Galliano. who was in Christian Dior team as a talented designer. The colour he used is vibrant and stands out. He used a darker tone of red for the shoes. Although it is still elegant it is not elegant as the original one. He added a double pleated jacket on the hip area and reduced the buttons. He still focused a lot on the upper area of the body because automatically your eyes goes on the jacket. He removed the bulky neck and made it simpler. The designer  also added a belt on the waist to focus on the curved area of the waist itself. The skirt is summery in material  and lifted up like ballerina style.

Although it is an original design it is still influenced from Dior`s work. The designer tried to leave the waist tiny as possible like Dior used to do. Bill Gaytten left the skirt lifted like the original bar suit. It is clearly influenced from antique time and the bar suit will surly complete to influence all the future designers.




After the post war influences completed to be shown in the fashion industry. Although they try to change the prints and the way they look they still clearly show that the designers became influenced by Christian Dior`s work. The designers still use the same fit, paddings and a lot of material to make a masterpiece.
The Catwalk designers still picture women with a really tiny waist as the best fashion symbol.


References:


Mark Holgate (2012). Vogue. [online].  Available on: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-week/resort-2013/christian-dior/review/ Accessed on: 27th Febuary, 2014

Dior. Dior official web site- the story of dior and the new look revolution. [online]. Available on: http://www.dior.com/couture/en_gb/the-house-of-dior/the-story-of-dior/the-new-look-revolution Accessed on: 27th Febuary, 2014


Hoschek,L. Christian dior`s New look of the 1940s and 1950s [online]. Available on http://ladyjojosboutique.wordpress.com/2011/07/13/christian-diors-new-look-of-the-1940s-and-1950s/ Accessed on: 27th Febuary, 2014.

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